Kohlrabi and Root Vegetable Hash

If you read the title and had a confused look at the word "kohlrabi" then you aren't close to being alone in that reaction. However, I would venture to say the chances that you've crossed paths with kohlrabi before are probably high if you frequent winter farmers markets or entered Whole Foods recently.  Kohlrabi is kind of like the cute black sheep of the cabbage family - doesn't look much like a cabbage at all but is rather beautiful and unique to its self in appearance and texture (see image below). Kohlrabi is mostly grown for its bulbous bottom but all parts of the plant are edible. When the crunchy bulb is consumed raw, its relation to cabbage becomes evident with the family's signature sweet and peppery taste. Kohlrabi is also an incredibly nutritious cool-weather crop, packed with fiber and Vitamin C. 

Curious about trying the delicious black sheep cabbage cousin? This breakfast hash recipe is the perfect introduction! Peppery bits of kohlrabi are well balanced with the sweetness of parsnips and sweet potatoes. And if cooked in a cast iron skillet, you'll get to enjoy lots of crispy bits as the vegetables cook in bacon drippings. If there were any doubts about love at first reading, the addition of lots of fresh rosemary and perfectly soft-baked eggs should fix that issue.

You can find the full recipe on Bonnie Plants' website and by clicking the button or image below. Happy breakfast feasting! 

Preserving Citrus Waste: Flavored Sugar and Salt

One of winter's greatest gifts is bright citrus - a welcome contrast to the darker, colder days that come with the season. The smell of an orange and tangy sweetness of grapefruit brighten the dreariest of days and brings anticipation of warmer days ahead. The downside to all of this deliciousness, though, is the amount of waste that comes from consuming citrus. Limes, lemons, oranges and grapefruits of all kinds leave behind their rinds, typically about 15% of the fruit's volume, full of flavor but too bitter to be eaten alone. This winter, I've made a point of trying to save my peels and rinds left over from juicing or eating them out of hand. I ended up with several pounds over a couple of weeks, all of which would have been wasted.

An easy dehydration in a low oven preserves these otherwise wasted rinds, allowing them to keep for months in your pantry. Dried citrus peels aren't a common pantry staple, but they are wonderful to have on hand for adding to tea, soup broths, infusing simple syrups and liquors or boiling in water on the stove, filling your house with their bright sent. My favorite use of all is grinding them to flavor salts and sugars for using in baked goods, sprinkling over eggs and toast or rimming a cocktail glass for some added flair. 

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SAVING YOUR RINDS

I keep a large ziplock bag in the refrigerator to throw the rinds into after juicing a lime or peeling an orange. I also keep a smaller one for extra citrus wedges or slices. After a week or so of collection, I dehydrate the contents and store in my pantry. Please do note that if you are using store-bought citrus, it may have been coated with wax. I would suggest using a vegetable wash prior to cutting into or peeling your citrus to remove that wax. If you are using organic or un-coated citrus, just give it a good rinse with water. 

Dehydrating Rinds & Slices

If you have a dehydrator, I'm jealous and your perfectly set-up for preserving your rinds, but you certainly don't need one. An oven works really well. If stored properly in air tight containers, your dried citrus will keep for months in your pantry. If you are using citrus slices or wedges, be sure they are all close to the same thickness. I usually cute mine down to 1/8" or 1/4" thick. 

To dehydrate with an oven: Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Spread out citrus peels and/or slices into a single layer. Place in a 170F oven (or 150 if your oven will go that low) for 5-8 hours. The peels and slices are dehydrated enough with they snap like a wafer or can be crushed in your fist.  

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FLAVORed Sugar and Salt

Citrus + SPice Salt

• 1/2 cup salt (kosher, Himalayan, sea salt, etc)
• 1/4 cup dried citrus peels
• 1 tsp spices or herbs (optional)

Line a baking sheet with wax or parchment paper. Pour the salt into the middle of the paper. Place the empty sieve on top of the salt and set aside. 

In a spice grinder or clean coffee grinder (with blades, not burs), add the citrus peels and grind until fine and powdery (some larger pieces may remain). Shake out the ground citrus into the sieve. Finely grind any spices or herbs, if needed, and add to the citrus.

Gently begin shaking the sieve over the salt until all small contents have worked their way through the mesh and only the larger pieces are left behind.  You can regrind the larger pieces and sieve again or save them for adding to a baked goods or tea. 

Carefully lift the paper and pour the salt into an airtight container (I use 8oz mason jars), seal tightly and shake to evenly distribute citrus and spices. Store in your pantry for several month. 

Pictured Below: Meyer Lemon Kosher Salt

Citrus + SPice Sugar

• 1 cup sugar (granulated or fine castor)
• 1/2 cup dried citrus peels
• 2 tsp spices or herbs (optional)

Line a baking sheet with wax or parchment paper. Place a fine mesh sieve on the lined sheet and add the sugar. Set aside.

In a spice grinder or clean coffee grinder (with blades, not burs), add the citrus peels and grind until fine and powdery (some larger pieces may remain). Shake out the ground citrus on top of the sugar in the sieve. Finely grind any spices or herbs, if needed, and add to the citrus and sugar.

Gently begin shaking the sieve over the paper until all small contents have worked their way through the mesh and only the larger pieces are left behind.  You can regrind the larger pieces and sieve again or save them for adding to a baked goods or tea. 

Carefully lift the paper and pour the sugar into an airtight container (I use pint sized mason jars), seal tightly and shake to evenly distribute citrus and spices. Store in your pantry for several month. 

Pictured Below: Blood Orange and Cardamom Sugar, below.

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Flavor Combination Suggestions

SALT

• Meyer Lemon
• Lime & Chipotle
• Curry Powder & Ginger
• Orange & Chili Flakes
• Lime & Berbere
• Black Pepper & Lemon

Sugar

• Blood Orange & Cardamom
• Navel Orange
• Ginger
• Grapefruit & Fennel
• Lime & Ginger
• Meyer Lemon and Lavender

Roasted Brussels Sprout Leaves

Featured: Brussels Sprout Leaves
Brussels sprouts are a cruciferous vegetable, meaning they are in the Brassicaceae family which includes cabbage, broccoli, collard greens and kale and are packed with nutrition. Brussels sprouts are considered a great disease-fighting food, helping to fight against cancer, diabetes, and heart disease. 

Nutrition: Low in calories and rich in anti-oxidants, potassium, and high amounts of Vitamin K & C. They are also good sources for your daily requirements of dietary fiber, Vitamin A, manganese, potassium, folate, iron and Vitamin B6. So, basically, they're like Nature's tasty multi-vitamin. 

Season: Harvest season is between September and March in temperate climates. Sprouts and leaves become sweeter after a frost.

Brussels sprouts in all forms are covering restaurant menus and Pinterest pages these days, but often overlooked are the large leaves that shelter the tiny sprouts as they grow (if you're unfamiliar with how Brussels sprouts grow, check this out). The leaves are edible and just as tasty as the sprouts. They aren't typically found in conventional grocery stores, but they are popping up around farmers markets or you may have them in your own garden. The leaves can be used in the same ways as kale, cabbage or collard greens by sautéing, shredding into salads or adding to green smoothies. But what you may be even less familiar with or just walked by dismissing it as cabbage, is the top of the Brussels sprouts stalk. As the stalk grows, the leaves form a head at the top, much like a very loose head of cabbage or one giant Brussels sprout. I love the small sprouts, but I definitely think the head of leaves is where the magic is. 

To me, the best roasted sprouts are when the outer leaves get crispy but the inner core is tender and sweet. The head of Brussels sprout leaves create that partnership perfectly.  If you are growing your own Brussels sprouts or find the heads locally, try this method of roasting and treating it like one giant Brussels sprout. The recipe below is just a baseline for roasting; how you choose the finish the roasted leaves us totally up to you! I used a bunch of fresh herbs I had leftover in the fridge to make a pesto, drizzled with extra vinegar, some shaved parmesan and additional fresh herbs. This is a great way to use up leftover condiments, herbs, sauces and cheeses that you have sitting around. If you can't find the heads of leaves, a napa, savoy or red cabbage will substitute nicely. 

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Roasted Brussels Sprout Leaves

• 1 head of Brussels sprout leaves or cabbage
• 1/2 cup balsamic vinegar
• 2 tsp brown sugar, honey or maple syrup
• 1/2 tsp kosher salt
• 2 Tbsp olive oil
• Various toppings of choice (pesto, chili oil, Sriracha, fresh herbs, cheese, etc.)

Preheat your oven to 375 F. 

Cut your head of Brussels sprout leaves or cabbage in half, from the top of the head to the stem end. Place each half cut side up on a lined baking sheet. 

In a small bowl, mix together vinegar, sugar, salt and olive oil. Pour a quarter or so of the mixture over the cut side of each half, allowing the liquid to seep in between the layers of leaves. Flip them over, cut-side down and lift any outer loose leaves, brushing the inner leaves with the mixture and all over the outside of each half. If you have any remaining vinegar, set aside for later use. 

Place the sheet pan in the oven and roast for 20-30 minutes, or until the middle is tender and the outer leaves become brown and crispy. You do not want them to burn.

Remove from the oven and serve with garnishes of your choice.  I drizzled mine with the remaining vinegar, herb pesto, fresh mint and dill leaves, and shaved parmesan cheese. 

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Grandma Trigg's Cuban Black Beans

If you’ve arrived here without reading the short essay introduction, I encourage you to head over there - it really is short, I promise. If you’ve arrived here from there, I have to tell you that, for me, these beans come with so many more memories than just those of culture and heritage. Not too long after she learned to cook, my grandmother forced an untimely kitchen renovation while cooking these beans in a pressure cooker...which exploded, starting a fire in said kitchen. Or the time she managed to include some accidental ingredients in them like picture hanging wall hooks - her own unintentional version of King's Cake. Thankfully, my brother Henry didn't swallow it; however, to his dismay, he also hadn’t won a prize.  But there are also the times she would make pot after pot of beans just to give away to people who needed a hot meal. Or, all the times she would slip Jennifer (her cat..) pieces of the roasted pork she would always make along with these beans. I promise this recipe comes picture-hanger-free but with all the love of my grandmother.

This is me at the 5th grade International Fair (hellllo 90s eye glasses) setting up a table about Cuba and passing out samples of Grandma's black beans.

There has to be some intentional ironic metaphor in here from Grandma about aging, but these beans really do get better with time. I recommend making them the day before you plan on eating (and hopefully sharing) them, or at least cook them and let them rest for several hours before serving. You can obviously eat them right away but trust me, it’s worth the extra bit of patience and time. I typically make a double batch so that I can freeze a few containers. They’re so easy to heat up for a quick meal, and the flavor is that much better.

Traditionally, these beans are served over white rice with fried sweet (ripe) plantains, green salad or fresh cabbage, roasted Cuban style pork and mojo covered yuca. If you forgo the whole feast, I suggest at least serving with plantains or salad, but definitely over rice. Freeze any leftovers or keep them in the fridge for up to two weeks and stir in an additional teaspoon or two of balsamic vinegar when reheating.

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Grandma Trigg’s Cuban Black Beans

Makes 8 to 10 servings

ingredients

• 3 tablespoons olive oil

• 1 small sweet onion, diced

• 1 bell pepper, diced

• 1 head of garlic, peeled and minced (yes, for real; 2 if you’re a garlic lover, like me)

• 3 cups dried black beans

• 5 cups water

• 3 tablespoons freshly ground cumin (4 Tbsp if using pre-ground)

• 4 teaspoons dried oregano

• 2 bay leaves

• 6 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

• 1 - 2 teaspoons kosher salt

method

1. Heat the olive oil in a large pot over medium heat and add the onions, peppers and garlic. Sauté for about 5 minutes, just until the onions and peppers start to soften and release their juices. Add the ground cumin and continue sautéing for a couple of minutes.

2. Add the beans, oregano, bay leaves and water. Stir until all of these ingredients are well combined. Reduce the heat to the lowest setting and slowly bring to a low simmer. Cover and continue cooking until the beans have softened to your liking, about 2 hours. Try to keep the pot at a low simmer rather than a boil. If you find the beans start to boil with the lid on, just remove the lid and stir often. Add additional water, if needed.

3. Once the beans are cooked to your preference, add the balsamic vinegar and 1 tsp salt. Cook, uncovered, for 5 minutes. Add any additional salt to taste. Cook for another 20 minutes, if you want your beans thicker rather than soupy. Beans can be served right away, but for better flavor, turn off the heat and let them rest for a few hours or overnight. Reheat and finish off with a healthy drizzle of olive oil before serving.

You can use canned black beans instead of dried if you don’t have time to plan ahead. Sub four 12 oz cans (drained) for the dried beans and add 4 cups of water or enough to just cover the beans.

If you haven't ever cooked with dried black beans, please note that different varieties will lose a varying amount of their deep color. You haven't done anything wrong if your beans start to look reddish brown or even grey as they cook. They will darken as they sit/cool, but still may lose some of their black tone. They'll taste delicious either way. Personally, I’ve found Camellia brand dried beans best for maintaining color and cooking faster.

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Grandma in Cuba - 1946

Grandma in Alabama - late 1990s

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Cuban Black Bean

Yield: 8 to 10

Author: Sarah Ward

Ingredients:

• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 small sweet onion, diced
• 1 bell pepper, diced
• 1 head of garlic, peeled and minced (yes, for real; 2 if you’re a garlic lover, like me)
• 3 cups dried black beans
• 5 cups water
• 3 tablespoons freshly ground cumin (4 Tbsp if using pre-ground)
• 4 teaspoons dried oregano
• 2 bay leaves
• 6 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
• 1 - 2 teaspoons kosher salt

Instructions:

1. Heat the olive oil in a large pot over medium heat and add the onions, peppers and garlic. Sauté for about 5 minutes, just until the onions and peppers start to soften and release their juices. Add the ground cumin and continue sautéing for a couple of minutes.
2. Add the beans, oregano, bay leaves and water. Stir until all of these ingredients are well combined. Reduce the heat to the lowest setting and slowly bring to a low simmer. Cover and continue cooking until the beans have softened to your liking, about 2 hours. Try to keep the pot at a low simmer rather than a boil. If you find the beans start to boil with the lid on, just remove the lid and stir often. Add additional water, if needed.
3. Once the beans are cooked to your preference, add the balsamic vinegar and 1 tsp salt. Cook, uncovered, for 5 minutes. Add any additional salt to taste. Cook for another 20 minutes, if you want your beans thicker rather than soupy. Beans can be served right away, but for better flavor, turn off the heat and let them rest for a few hours or overnight. Reheat and finish off with a healthy drizzle of olive oil before serving.

Notes:

You can use canned black beans instead of dried if you don’t have time to plan ahead. Sub four 12 oz cans (drained) for the dried beans and add 4 cups of water or enough to just cover the beans. If you haven't ever cooked with dried black beans, please note that different varieties will lose a varying amount of their deep color. You haven't done anything wrong if your beans start to look reddish brown or even grey as they cook. They will darken as they sit/cool, but still may lose some of their black tone. They'll taste delicious either way. Personally, I’ve found Camellia brand's dried beans best for maintaining color. Traditionally, these beans are served over white rice with fried sweet (ripe) plantains, green salad or fresh cabbage, roasted Cuban style pork and mojo covered yuca. If you forgo the whole feast, I suggest at least serving with plantains or salad, but definitely over rice.

Calories

336.78

Fat (grams)

6.72

Sat. Fat (grams)

1.02

Carbs (grams)

54.24

Fiber (grams)

12.44

Net carbs

41.81

Sugar (grams)

5.89

Protein (grams)

16.95

Sodium (milligrams)

417.25

Cholesterol (grams)

0.00

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Persimmon and Apple Crumb Pie

One of the most anticipated fruit seasons of the year for me is when persimmons hit the market. I find myself with a bowl full of them on the counter at most times during the months of fall and winter. These orange squatty fruits are like little the peaches of winter - nothing quite like them and when they are ripe and sweet they are perfect eaten out of hand. I will issue you a fair warning though; please be sure you know which variety your are digging into and just what "ripe" means for it, or you might surprise yourself with a less-than-thrilling feeling of eating chalk....

I know I talked a bit about persimmons last year, but I keep meeting people that don't know what they are or don't like them because they've had a bad experience eating an astringent one. So, I'll be posting a few persimmon based recipes as we lead into winter. For those of you who don't fawn over pumpkin everything, persimmons may just be the "basic" obsession you need.    

Featured: Fuyu Persimmons
When ripe, they have a honey-like sweetness that is delicious and unique for a winter fruit. This particular variety is not astringent (causing a chalky mouth feel) so it can be eaten when less ripe, but their sweetness deepens as they ripen. As the persimmon ripens, the color will become richer and the flesh will start to give slightly - similar to a slightly under ripe pear. Serve raw or cooked.

Nutrition: Rich in potassium and Vitamins A and C. Also a good source of antioxidants, fiber and Omega-6.

Season: October & November; through winter in warmer climates.

For this Persimmon and Apple Crumb Pie, you'll want to find richly colored Fuyu persimmons that are still firm. You can tell if they are the right ripeness by placing one in your palm and gently giving it a squeeze - it should feel like an apple. If this is your first time working with persimmons, keep the stem end on while peeling and slicing. This will give you something to grip and ensure your hand doesn't slip (while I'm sure the ER doctors are lovely, please don't go visit them). You can use a standard vegetable peeler and peel the fruits just like you would an apple. There is no thickening agent added to this pie, something which any pie maker might find odd. Persimmons are very high in pectin and since the fruit macerates and the juiced are then reduced, there's no need for extra cornstarch or flour. 

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Persimmon and Apple Crumb Pie

• 6 Fuyu persimmons (4-5 if they are large - about the size of your palm)

• 1 large apple, cored

• 3 Tbsp granulated sugar

• 3 Tbsp brown sugar (or sub in 6 Tbsp coconut sugar for both granulated and brown cane sugar)

• 1 tsp ground cinnamon

• 1 tsp ground ginger

• 1/4 tsp ground cardamom

• 1/8 tsp ground black pepper

• 1 large orange, juiced

• 1 recipe Basic Pie Crust, prepared and refrigerated

• Egg wash (optional; 1 egg beaten with 1 Tbsp cold water)

Crumb Topping

• ½ cup all-purpose flour

• ½ cup almond flour

• 3 Tbsp brown sugar

• 4 Tbsp unsalted butter

• ½ vanilla bean, split and scraped or 1 tbsp vanilla extract

Peel and slice the persimmons and apples into thin rounds (1/4” thick). If you have a mandolin, keep the stem end on the fruits to use as a hand guard and guide. Deseed any slices if necessary and place in a gallon size zip-top bag or other airtight container. In a small bowl, combine both sugars and all dry spices. Sprinkle over the fruit. Pour in the orange juice and toss to fully coat. Seal the bag, making sure to press out any air, or press a sheet of plastic wrap onto the surface of the fruit and seal with the lid. Place in the refrigerator for at least 6 hours or overnight.

Roll out the pie dough and place it in a 9” pie pan. Crimp or decorate the edges as desired. Place the prepared crust in the freezer until ready to fill.

(This is a great place to pause if you need to prepare something else for your meal or are wanting to prep for your pie ahead of time. When ready to bake, continue with instructions below.)

Preheat oven to 350 F.

Strain the sliced fruit, collecting the syrup in a bowl. Place the syrup in a small sauce pan over medium-low heat and bring to a low simmer, stirring occasionally. Cook until the liquid thickens and becomes the consistency of cold maple syrup. Remove from the heat and set aside.

To make the crumb topping, mix together flours and sugar. Add the butter to a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Stir as the butter melts and bubbles. Continue stirring and cook until the butter solids start to brown, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the vanilla bean scrapings or extract. Pour the browned butter over the flour mixture, mixing with a fork until the ingredients are no longer dry and have formed small clumps.

Remove your pie crust from the freezer and brush the edges of the crust with the egg wash, if desired. Fill the pie by evenly layering in the sliced fruit. Some of the persimmon slices may have stuck together, so gently peel them apart. For any groupings that are falling apart instead of pealing away from each other, don't worry about separating them. Pour the reduced syrup over the fruit and spread the crumb topping evenly over the pie. Place on a parchment lined  sheet pan in the middle of your oven for 35-40 minutes.  The pie is done when the juices begin to bubble up along the edges of the filling.  

Cool on a rack for at least 1 hour before serving. This pie is excellent served with a scoop of vanilla bean ice cream or freshly whipped cream.

Yield: 9" pie - about 8 servings // Store in the refrigerator loosely wrapped in plastic for up to a week.